PARIS — Moving with the times, the gleaming world of high jewelry continues to bend itself to an age that wants it all: spectacular gems and out-of-this-world experiences — but also diversity and transparency. The collections at haute couture week here showed actors across the spectrum opening up new frontiers as they jostle for attention — and relevance — with the arrival of Gucci on the high-jewelry scene, further pressuring traditional brands.
A fresh infusion of modernity came in the form of a three-dimensional rock crystal, onyx and cacholong marquetry at Boucheron, a pixil-ized color theme at Dior and a broadening of the scope of materials — with De Beers Jewellers working mother-of-pearl to reflect its diamonds, while Cartier added an infusion of rutilated quartz to its Magnitude collection. The house is taking its collection to New York in the fall, but couldn’t resist offering a preview in Paris.

Gucci ring. 
Courtesy/Fabio Pianigiani

A lot is happening on the digital front, too. Net-a-porter hosted an evening party in the Marais with canapés and elderflower cocktails to celebrate its deeper push into the sector, showing exclusive pieces it will sell online from houses like Piaget and Chopard, as well as Ana Khouri and Bina Goenka.

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